How to make a relief tile

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Making a Relief Tile

This shows the steps from idea to completion for a tile with a relief honeybee. I wanted a tile with a bee that looked alive and ready to fly to the next flower on her route. After finding a photograph with the image I had in mind, it was sized to allow for the 15% shrinkage from wet clay to fired and glazed tile. Here's the process...

	For this honeybee design, I used four layers of clay to achieve the desired amount of relief. I flattened the clay evenly with a rolling pin. The first layer, used for the base, is thicker; then three additional thinner layers are stacked for modeling. The clay layers are supported by a solid base covered with plastic wrap to keep the clay moist.

	I outline the reference photograph with a round stylus which transfers the image to the clay. Then I cut around the outline with an exacto knife to remove the unwanted layers of clay and leave negative space around the body of the honeybee.

	Next I shape the wet clay using carving and modeling tools to acheive the detail of the honeybee. This is a very time consuming process and can take several days. The clay must be moistened and covered with plastic every hour or two so it doesn't dry out. When I finish the modeling, I use a template of the finished tile size to cut away the excess clay.

	The finished clay model ready to be cast in plaster.
	After I place the tile in a plastic form I slowly pour plaster from the edge so it runs into the center of the tile. This minimizes the possibility of bubbles in the plaster and the final mold will retain the detail of the carving. The original model is destroyed in this process.

	The finished plaster mold.
	After the mold has dried for 10 days, it's ready to be used. I cut a square of clay the size of the tile and push it into the mold with my fingers.

	Next I place a piece of canvas over the mold and clay and use a rubber mallet and piece of wood to pound the clay into the mold.

	I use a wire cut off to remove the excess clay. Then I scrape a piece of wood across the top of the mold to remove as much of the clay as possible. The wood removes the clay without scratching the plaster.

	The plaster absorbs water from the clay and after about 20 minutes I can remove the tile from the mold. I position the upside-down mold over 2 pieces of wood and pick up a corner and let it fall on the wood until the tile falls out.

	Here is a close-up of the wet clay tile as it came out of the mold. Check back to see it after bisque firing and glazing!